How to Make a Monster Pillow
Who said that a monster couldn’t be adorable? This soft cuddly pillow sports a friendly monster face you can’t help but love and it’s just the right size for kids to hug. Plus it’s easy to make so it won’t turn into a monster project . . . so why make only one? Friendly monsters are welcome in your little one’s room and in the car. This monster pillow is also a great gift idea for your little one’s pals, too.
Supplies
- Fleece or other non-fray fabric
- Double-sided fusible web
- Iron and ironing surface
- Double or Twin needle (optional)
- Sewing thread
- Polyfil stuffing
- Hand-sewing needle
Click to download the Monster Pillow pattern pieces: Monster_Pillow_pattern_pieces_121814.pdf
Step 1) Cut out the pieces.
Cut out all the pattern pieces in the colors of your choice, using fleece or other non-fray fabric.
- Head Top – cut 1
- Head Bottom – cut 1
- Left Outer Eye – cut 1
- Right Outer Eye – cut 1
- Left Inner Eye – cut 1
- Right Inner Eye – cut 1
- Teeth – cut 2
- Hair Strips – cut five 2-1/2″ x 8-1/2″ strips
- Pillow Base – cut two 17″ x 17″ squares
Cut double-sided fusible web from the following pieces:
- Head Top – cut 1
- Head Bottom – cut 1
- Left Outer Eye – cut 1
- Right Outer Eye – cut 1
- Left Inner Eye – cut 1
- Right Inner Eye – cut 1
- Teeth – cut 2
Step 2) Fuse and stitch the monster pieces to the pillow.
Apply the fusible web to the back of the corresponding pieces following the instructions on the fusible web package. Peel away the paper backing (if your webbing has backing) from each piece.
Place the Head Top, adhesive side down, on the front of one of the Pillow Base pieces, 3-1/2″ from the top and centered evenly from left to right. Fuse in place following the instructions on the package and making sure the adhesive has adhered.
Place Outer Eyes and Teeth inside the dotted lines (see pattern piece) and fuse in place. Repeat for the Inner Eyes.
Sew around the edges of each piece, 1/8″ from the outer edge.
Sew another line of stitching around the Head Top piece, 1/4″ from the edge.
Alternatively, use a Double needle or Twin needle to achieve a nice, even double-stitched line around the Head Top.
Overlap the top edge of the Head Bottom 1/2″ above the bottom edge of the Head Top, centered evenly from left to right. Fuse it in iplace, making sure the adhesive has secured it in place.
Sew two lines around the outer edge of the Head Bottom, 1/8″ and 1/4″ from the edge (or use a Double or Twin needle), just like the stitching around the Head Top.
Step 3) Make and add the monster hair.
Fold each Hair Strip in half lengthwise, with right sides together. Stitch along the long edge with a 1/2″-wide seam allowance, making a tube.
Turn each tube right side out. Note: Don’t trim the seam allowances; leave them at 1/2″ so they act as “stuffing” for the tubes.
Tie a single knot at the end of each strip.
Take one of the Hair Strip pieces and hold the unknotted end in your hand. Fold the end under 1″ and then place this folded end at the very top of the Head Top, with the extra 1″ folded under and facing down. Be sure that this first Hair Strip is centered evenly in the middle of the Head Top and the bottom of the fold meets evenly with the top edge.
Sew the Hair Strip in place with three lines of stitching spaced 1/2″ apart, with the first starting right at the base of the strip.
Using the first Hair Strip as a guide, add the other four strips, placing them 1″ apart. As you line up each Hair Strip perpendicular to the top edge of the Head Top, they will automatically fan outward. As you sew each Hair Strip in place, be sure that the extra 1″ folded underneath is hidden.
Step 4) Construct the Monster Pillow.
Place the two Pillow Base pieces right sides together, taking care that the Hair Strips are folded toward the center and out of the way. Pin them if needed.
Sew around all four sides of the pillow using a 1/2″-wide seam allowance and leaving about a 6″ opening along the bottom edge.
Trim all four corners as shown.
Turn the pillow right side out, poke out the corners, and stuff with batting.
Fold the raw edges of the opening under 1/2″. Hand-sew the opening closed.
Used Products
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Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Supplies Large scraps or fat quarters of 100% cotton quilter's fabrics: One large print One light solid or small print One medium solid or small print One dark solid or small print 1/2 yard of white cotton fabric for the pillow lining 1/2 yard of fabric for the pillow back Coordinating thread 14" square pillow form Universal or Sharp needle, size 75/11 1/4" foot (BERNINA Patchwork Foot with Guide #57) Straight stitch foot (BERNINA Straight Stitch Foot #13) Zigzag foot (BERNINA Reverse Pattern Foot #1) or overlock foot (BERNINA Overlock Foot #2) Rotary cutter and self-healing cutting mat Clear acrylic gridded ruler Download and print the Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Cutting and Piecing Diagrams: [download id="90"] Step 1) Cut the fabric pieces. Accurate cutting helps avoid crooked, puffy, or uneven seams in your quilt block. Use a self-healing mat, a clear acrylic gridded ruler, and a rotary cutter to cut the pieces for your quilt block. Rotary cutters Rotary Cutting Tips Self-healing mats come in different sizes. 24" x 36" is a good size to have, but if you don't have a dedicated sewing space or don't plan to use it often, try an 18" x 24" mat instead. Acrylic rulers also come in many shapes and sizes. A standard 6" x 24" ruler is a good start, and I've also found a 12-1/2" x 12-1/2" square ruler to come in very handy. Rotary cutters are measured by the size of the circular blade in millimeters. A 45 mm rotary cutter is perfect for making the kind of straight cuts needed for this project. Use the grid on your cutting mat to help square up fabric pieces when needed, but when measuring to cut the pieces be sure to use the gridlines on the acrylic ruler. Hold the ruler firmly on top of the fabric, and use a steady, firm, pressing motion when cutting with the rotary cutter. Cut one of each pattern piece from the corresponding fabrics (also see downloaded Cutting Diagram): Piece #1 - Light solid or small print, 4" x 3" Piece #2 - Dark solid or small print, 4" x 5" Piece #3 - Light solid or small print, 4" x 2-1/2" Piece #4 - Large print, 9-1/2" x 9-1/2" Piece #5 - Light solid or small print, 2-1/2" x 9-1/2" Piece #6 - Dark solid or small print, 14-1/2" x 2-1/2" Piece #7 - Medium solid or small print, 14-1/2" x 3-1/2" Step 2) Piece the block. Set your sewing machine for a straight stitch about 2.5 mm long. Attach a quarter-inch foot, such as BERNINA Patchwork Foot with Guide #57, to your sewing machine. The blocks will be sewn together using a 1/4"-wide seam allowance. Stitching an accurate 1/4"-wide seam will help your block come together with nice, straight seams and avoid pieces not fitting together as you sew on. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Patchwork Piecing Tips Us a quarter-inch foot to help you keep the correct seam allowance width. 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Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Topstitch close to the inner edge of the folded hem with a straight stitch, using either a multi-purpose foot or a straight stitch foot. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Layer and pin the pieces of the pillow together: Begin with the 14-1/2" square of white cotton for the lining. Add the finished patchwork block, right side up, matching all edges. Add one pocket pillow back, right side down, matching the raw edges. The finished hem will be about 5" from the other end of the pillow. Add the other pocket pillow back, right side down, on the opposite edge. The hemmed edges will overlap. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Pin around all four edges of the pillow. Set your sewing machine for a straight stitch of 2.5 mm long. Stitch around all four sides of the pillow using a 1/2"-wide seam allowance. Trim all seam allowances to 1/4". Attach an overlock or zigzag stitch foot to your sewing machine. Set your machine for a zigzag or overlock stitch and sew over the raw edges to keep them from unraveling. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Turn the pillow cover right side out, gently pushing each corner from the inside to turn it. Insert the 14"-square pillow form through the opening in the back of the pillow cover. If needed, use a little fiberfill to help fill out the pillow corners. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Geometric Quilt Block Pillow](https://weallsew.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2014/01/Geometric-Quilt-Block-Pillow-WeAllSew.jpg)
16 comments on “How to Make a Monster Pillow”
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We love this little monster, too! There should be a link to the project instructions under the description. On my computer it’s in red: Monster Pillow by Ashley Johnston. Click on that and you’ll go to the PDF instructions. Jo
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I am making this pillow. Love it! But I cannot get my hair pieces to turn inside out. Been working on one for an hour. Any suggestions? thank you.
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Turning tubes is on my list of “Top Ten Frustrating Sewing Techniques,” so I know how you feel! They can be tricky. Try trimming the seam allowances just slightly. You want them there to “stuff” the hair, but the tubes may be easier to turn if they’re “stuffed” a bit less tightly. Also try serging or overlocking the seam allowances together (you could also use a zigzag stitch). This compacts the layers and also makes them a little easier to grab hold of. The hardest part is getting the end started; after that, you’re usually home free! Jo
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When I print the pattern the top and bottom head pieces are the same size.
On the instructions the bottom piece looks much larger.
Yes, the 2″ x 2″ is correct when printing.Thank you
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such a cute project. How can I get instructions?