How to Make a Tooth Fairy Pillow
Little ones with wiggly teeth deserve special pillows for their treasures. True to form, this Tooth Fairy Pillow sports a fun bicuspid shape, has a large pocket (big enough to hold money, dental floss, fairy dust, etc.), and a large hanger so the pillow can be easily placed on a bedpost or doorknob for easy tooth retrieval. After all, we don’t want the tooth fairy to miss it.
Supplies
- 1/4 yard white fabric (cotton, flannel, or recycled and felted wool sweater)
- White all-purpose polyester thread
- Shears
- Ruler
- Water-soluble marker
- Hand-sewing needle
- Polyester fiberfill
- Size 80/12 Universal (all-purpose) sewing machine needle
- Quarter-inch (1/4ʺ) foot (BERNINA Patchwork Foot #37 or Patchwork Foot with Guide #57)
Supplies for optional embroidery
- Embroidery machine
- Tooth fairy-themed embroidery design such as OESD #CK980, “Note to the Tooth Fairy,” from the Tooth Fairy collection #12124 (available at embroideryonline.com)
- Embroidery thread
- OESD LightWeight Cut-Away Stabilizer
- Size 80/12 Embroidery needles
Step one) Prepare the fabric pieces.
Download and print the pattern: tooth_pillow_pattern_123014.pdf
Cut out the template.
Using the template, cut two tooth-shaped pieces from the white fabric.
Cut one 4-1/2ʺ x 8-1/2ʺ rectangle of white fabric for the pocket.
Cut one 2ʺ x 10ʺ rectangle of white fabric for the hanger.
Step two) Embroider the message (optional).
Embroider a design, name, or saying on the pocket piece, in the upper half of the rectangle. (Optional)
Step three) Construct the pocket.
With right sides together, fold the pocket in half.
Stitch around the sides and top, leaving an opening for turning along one side.
Clip the corners.
Turn pocket right side out; press.
Center the pocket on one tooth-shaped fabric piece. Pin.
Stitch close to the side and bottom edges of the pocket, leaving the upper edge free from stitches. (This stitching also closes the opening used to turn the pocket right side out.)
Step four) Make the hanging loop.
With wrong sides together, fold the hanger rectangle in half lengthwise. Press, then open the fold.
Fold the raw edges in to meet the crease; press.
Fold rectangle in half along the original crease; press.
Stitch close to the outer edges of the hanger strip.
Fold the hanger in half to form a loop.
Place the hanger on the front of the tooth, centered along the upper edge. Baste in place.
Step five) Construct the tooth.
Place the two tooth-shaped pieces right sides together, matching the raw edges.
Stitch around the outer edges using a 1/4ʺ-wide seam allowance, leaving a 2ʺ‒3ʺ opening along one side for turning. Take care not to catch the hanging loopin the stitching!
Clip the curves.
Turn the tooth right side out.
Firmly stuff the tooth with fiberfill. Fill the “roots” first, then the main body of the tooth.
Hand-stitch the opening closed.
![Is that big, bold scrap of fabric staring at you? This quilt square is designed to let a large print fabric shine. This simple block is quick to make and easily stitched into a pillow. With a bit more fabric you can turn it into a placemat or table runner. The perfect project for turning fabric scraps into something bold and beautiful. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Supplies Large scraps or fat quarters of 100% cotton quilter's fabrics: One large print One light solid or small print One medium solid or small print One dark solid or small print 1/2 yard of white cotton fabric for the pillow lining 1/2 yard of fabric for the pillow back Coordinating thread 14" square pillow form Universal or Sharp needle, size 75/11 1/4" foot (BERNINA Patchwork Foot with Guide #57) Straight stitch foot (BERNINA Straight Stitch Foot #13) Zigzag foot (BERNINA Reverse Pattern Foot #1) or overlock foot (BERNINA Overlock Foot #2) Rotary cutter and self-healing cutting mat Clear acrylic gridded ruler Download and print the Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Cutting and Piecing Diagrams: [download id="90"] Step 1) Cut the fabric pieces. Accurate cutting helps avoid crooked, puffy, or uneven seams in your quilt block. Use a self-healing mat, a clear acrylic gridded ruler, and a rotary cutter to cut the pieces for your quilt block. Rotary cutters Rotary Cutting Tips Self-healing mats come in different sizes. 24" x 36" is a good size to have, but if you don't have a dedicated sewing space or don't plan to use it often, try an 18" x 24" mat instead. Acrylic rulers also come in many shapes and sizes. A standard 6" x 24" ruler is a good start, and I've also found a 12-1/2" x 12-1/2" square ruler to come in very handy. Rotary cutters are measured by the size of the circular blade in millimeters. A 45 mm rotary cutter is perfect for making the kind of straight cuts needed for this project. Use the grid on your cutting mat to help square up fabric pieces when needed, but when measuring to cut the pieces be sure to use the gridlines on the acrylic ruler. Hold the ruler firmly on top of the fabric, and use a steady, firm, pressing motion when cutting with the rotary cutter. Cut one of each pattern piece from the corresponding fabrics (also see downloaded Cutting Diagram): Piece #1 - Light solid or small print, 4" x 3" Piece #2 - Dark solid or small print, 4" x 5" Piece #3 - Light solid or small print, 4" x 2-1/2" Piece #4 - Large print, 9-1/2" x 9-1/2" Piece #5 - Light solid or small print, 2-1/2" x 9-1/2" Piece #6 - Dark solid or small print, 14-1/2" x 2-1/2" Piece #7 - Medium solid or small print, 14-1/2" x 3-1/2" Step 2) Piece the block. Set your sewing machine for a straight stitch about 2.5 mm long. Attach a quarter-inch foot, such as BERNINA Patchwork Foot with Guide #57, to your sewing machine. The blocks will be sewn together using a 1/4"-wide seam allowance. Stitching an accurate 1/4"-wide seam will help your block come together with nice, straight seams and avoid pieces not fitting together as you sew on. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Patchwork Piecing Tips Us a quarter-inch foot to help you keep the correct seam allowance width. The BERNINA Patchwork Foot #37 is designed specifically so that following the edge of the foot will create a 1/4"-wide seam allowance. BERNINA Patchwork Foot with Guide #57 is similar to foot #37, but adds a metal guide at the side of the foot to help you like up your fabric piece exactly at the edge of the foot. Attach a seam guide to the bed of your sewing machine along the 1/4" seam allowance mark on your stitch plate, then place the edges of your fabric pieces against the guide as you sew. Alternatively, place a piece of blue low-tack painter's tape along the 1/4" seam allowance mark on your stitch plate as a guide for your fabric. Piecing Diagram Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Start by stitching Piece #1 to Piece #2 along one 4" edge. Press the seam allowances to one side. Next, sew Piece #3 to Piece #2 along one 4" edge as shown in the diagram; press after stitching. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Continue adding pieces to the block as shown in the diagram, pressing each seam as you go. Tip: When pressing seams, be sure to press DOWN with the iron as opposed to "ironing," or pushing the iron back and forth over the seam. Ironing (back and forth motion) can cause straight seams to go crooked. Pressing straight up and down with the iron will help your seams stay nice and straight. Press all seams again from the back of the block when finished. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow The finished block should measure 14-1/2" x 14-1/2". Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Step 3) Construct the pillow cover. Cut one 14-1/2" x 14-1/2" square of fabric for the pillow lining. Cut two 11" x 14-1/2" rectangles of fabric for the pillow back. Create a 2" hem along one edge of each 11" x 14-1/2" pillow pocket piece: Turn under 1" along one long edge; press. Turn under an additional 1"; press. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Topstitch close to the inner edge of the folded hem with a straight stitch, using either a multi-purpose foot or a straight stitch foot. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Layer and pin the pieces of the pillow together: Begin with the 14-1/2" square of white cotton for the lining. Add the finished patchwork block, right side up, matching all edges. Add one pocket pillow back, right side down, matching the raw edges. The finished hem will be about 5" from the other end of the pillow. Add the other pocket pillow back, right side down, on the opposite edge. The hemmed edges will overlap. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Pin around all four edges of the pillow. Set your sewing machine for a straight stitch of 2.5 mm long. Stitch around all four sides of the pillow using a 1/2"-wide seam allowance. Trim all seam allowances to 1/4". Attach an overlock or zigzag stitch foot to your sewing machine. Set your machine for a zigzag or overlock stitch and sew over the raw edges to keep them from unraveling. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Turn the pillow cover right side out, gently pushing each corner from the inside to turn it. Insert the 14"-square pillow form through the opening in the back of the pillow cover. If needed, use a little fiberfill to help fill out the pillow corners. Geometric Quilt Block Pillow Geometric Quilt Block Pillow](https://weallsew.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2014/01/Geometric-Quilt-Block-Pillow-WeAllSew.jpg)
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