Jeanuary Recap: Start Your Denim Sewing Journey

In case you missed it–you really didn’t! We made jeans all of January and will continue to make jeans just because they are fun to learn and denim is the best fabric to work with, especially with a BERNINA machine!

What Is Jeanuary?

Jeanuary is a sewing campaign created four years ago, and every January we kick off the season with our favorite fabric: denim…stretch, stable, printed, embroidered…the design ideas are endless. Jeanuary is our month-long celebration of denim, fit, and skill-building—designed for members of the sewing community who are ready to deepen their understanding of jeans from the inside out. This blog is about techniques, insights, and resources that demystify working with denim, empowering you to create jeans that truly fit your body and style. Whether you’re sewing your first pair or refining your process, Jeanuary is an invitation to slow down, learn something new, and enjoy the satisfaction of building a garment you’ll wear for years to come.

My BERNINA 770 QE PLUS did not disappoint! I’ve never made keyhole buttonholes as perfectly fabulous as the ones I just made for my new jeans. Jeans Foot #8 has the flexibility to go from regular thread to the heaviest of top-stitch thread, and the programmed Bra Tacks are delicious. Get ready!

Choosing the Right Thread

The retail market will show various types of thread to consider when working with denim. It all depends on your garment and the results you need with the finish. Regular thread can be a tad heavier in weight because you are working with a heavily woven fabric, and you need security in the seams. Topstitch Thread adds to that security, but also gives that all-American look that makes jeans our favorite garment: the Amber goodness of topstitching that never wears away.

Tips: Use topstitch thread in the upper spool only and regular thread in the bobbin.  Topstitch thread can be various weights depending on preference, so test, test, and test again to ensure the results you desire. Some retailers carry a “denim or jeans” thread in the color of jeans, including the “white weft” color, and a tad heavier than sewing thread.

Machine Needles

Some experts consistently use a 100/16 size needle (Me!), and I’ve heard some experts would first recommend the sharpest needle (Microtex) available to pierce layers of denim, depending on the fabric weight and construction. Test, test, test needles on your project samples and determine what will work for you and the desired results.

Flat-Felled Seams

The side seam you see on your jeans has double-stitch lines. Easy to stitch and oh so satisfying because the BERNINA Jeans Foot #8 will guide you in the straight stitch line. This foot will also handle the double-folded seams nicely.

Fly Front Zipper

This is one of the scariest zipper installations out there, and that’s one of the reasons most of us will avoid jeans. When I tell you jeans are just pockets put together, and you got jeans…it’s the fit challenge you’ll have, not the sewing. Jeans Foot #8 will fit perfectly on the zipper tape, and the ability to move the needle left & right makes it so easy to get the stitch you want within the zipper construction.

Keyhole Buttonholes

If you already own a BERNINA machine, you know how efficient the programmed stitches are.  At the touch of a button, the machine does the work for you.  Same for the keyhole buttonhole for the front closure of your jeans. The keyhole shape is designed to hold the large barrel of your metal zipper and withstands wear and tear for YEARS!

Bar Tacks

Bar tacks help to secure stress areas of your jeans: the bottom area of the zipper, side seam right at the pocket opening, back pocket points…or wherever you feel you need extra support on your fabric, a Bar Tack is the solution. A tight, narrow zig-zag made from top-stitch thread gives you support on the fabric and a handsome detail on your garment.

Waistband and Hem

This is where the BERNINA Jeans Foot #8 shows off! The waistband of the jeans, the final point of construction, you will have 5 layers of folded denim to stitch through. Imagine not having the right foot to keep your stitch in place, nor the needle to handle the pile? This is also why some denim threads are heavier–they handle important parts of this garment if you plan to wear them for a long time.

Enjoy!