Pointed Princess Seam Pattern Manipulation Tutorial

Hello Everyone! My name is Fabian Renteria. I am a Fashion Designer based in Los Angeles, California and currently an Advanced Fashion Design student at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising (FIDM). I am thrilled to be bringing you my very first post here on the BERNINA, WeAllSew Blog! If you are a fashion sewer, this is for you! In this video tutorial I demonstrate a variation on the classic Princess Seam. There is a twist, however . . .

Instead of a regular princess seam that curves over the bust, this variation allows the seam to come to a “point” at the bust Apex and continues down into the hemline. I will guide you through every step of the way in drafting and sewing this design feature from a basic pattern. In addition, If you happen to draft your own patterns already, a simple Torso Sloper/Block will work beautifully. I hope you enjoy!

Materials:

• Basic Torso Pattern (Button-Up Shirt, Sheath Dress, or jacket pattern)
• Dot Paper or Any other large format paper. Brown butcher paper works great as well!
• Clear Gridded ruler for adding seam allowances and new design lines
• Pencil. Mechanical is encouraged for accuracy
• Scotch Tape
• Paper Scissors
• Fabric Scissors
• 1 1/2 – 2 yards of 100% Cotton Muslin
• Pins.
• Fabric marking utensil
• Steam Iron and Ironing Board
• Sewing Machine
• General Purpose sewing thread

About this Technique

In the image above, you can see that this technique was done on an asymmetrical dress and a blazer. We will be focusing on the jacket example in our manipulation. This will show you how to achieve a contoured fit. Also, please take note that in my jacket sample, there are TWO princess seams. In the tutorial we will go over how to execute this technique with only ONE seam. This simplifies the process of altering your pattern. A pointed princess seam also works with garments that sit farther away from the body. The major difference in the dress example is the Fish Eye Darts were not eliminated. I simply drew in the desired design lines then cut right down the center of the darts. Doing this created a boxy shape because of the added ease.

This technique can be adapted to create a futuristic yet sophisticated look. Play with textures, such as the lace insertion pictured above. Cut your Side Front panels in a glossy faux Leather, or even alternate colors around the body. The sky is the limit!

Thank you so much for watching! If you would like to see more of my work, feel free to follow me on Instagram. If you have any questions or if you would like to see more content such as this, let us know in the comment section below!

Until next time, Happy Sewing!