Bias Facing Tutorial

I love bias binding. I especially love to use it in the place of facings at the neckline and armholes. It’s my preferred finish when constructing garments sewn in sheer fabrics. Bias facing provides a cleaner finish without having a facing that shows through. And it’s simple to do. In these easy steps, I’ll walk you through how it’s done.

Materials Needed to Make a Bias Facing

• Raw edge of a garment (i.e. neckline, armhole or hem)
• 2″ bias binding (made by hand or purchased)
• Pins
• Sewing machine (I used my BERNINA 350PE)
• Reverse Pattern Foot #1
• Edgestitch Foot #10D or Blindstitch Foot #5

Step 1

When using a commer­cial pattern that was not originally drafted for a bias bound finish, you will need to make adjustments. Typ­ically, seam allowances are drafted at 5/8″. To attach the bias binding, you will need a 1/4″ seam allowance. So, you will need to reduce the original seam allowance by 3/8″.

Step 2

Your bias strips should be two inches wide and the length of your garment’s edge. Press them in half lengthwise with wrong sides together, using a warm iron. Too much heat will cause the bias strips to stretch.

Step 3

Pin your folded bias strips to the wrong side of the neckline or armhole, matching the raw edge and secure with pins.

Step 4

Stitch the binding to the neckline using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 5

Press the bias binding and the seam allowances up and away from the neckline or the arm­hole.

Step 6

Fold the binding over to the right side and press.

Step 7

Using an edgestitch foot or a blindstitch foot, edges­titch the binding very close to the folded edge.

Step 8

Give a final press and you’re all done!