Bias Facing Tutorial

French Bias Binding Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker

I love bias binding. I especially love to use it in the place of facings at the neckline and armholes. It’s my preferred finish when constructing garments sewn in sheer fabrics. Bias facing provides a cleaner finish without having a facing that shows through. And it’s simple to do. In these easy steps, I’ll walk you through how it’s done.

Materials Needed to Make a Bias Facing

Step 1

When using a commer­cial pattern that was not originally drafted for a bias bound finish, you will need to make adjustments. Typ­ically, seam allowances are drafted at 5/8″. To attach the bias binding, you will need a 1/4″ seam allowance. So, you will need to reduce the original seam allowance by 3/8″.

French Bias Binding Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker

Step 2

Your bias strips should be two inches wide and the length of your garment’s edge. Press them in half lengthwise with wrong sides together, using a warm iron. Too much heat will cause the bias strips to stretch.

French Bias Binding Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker

Step 3

Pin your folded bias strips to the wrong side of the neckline or armhole, matching the raw edge and secure with pins.

French Bias Binding Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker

Step 4

Stitch the binding to the neckline using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance.

French Bias Binding Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker

Step 5

Press the bias binding and the seam allowances up and away from the neckline or the arm­hole.

Step 6

Fold the binding over to the right side and press.

French Bias Binding Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker

Step 7

Using an edgestitch foot or a blindstitch foot, edges­titch the binding very close to the folded edge.

French Bias Binding Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica BunkerStep 8

Give a final press and you’re all done!

French Bias Binding Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker

French Bias Binding Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker

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