How to Make a Floppy Fedora

Whether you’re beach side sipping mojitos, out shopping your local farmers market, or knee high in farm muck; you’ll want to make and wear this season’s must have accessory – the Floppy Fedora Hat! Last week I had the chance to join the creative & talented ladies and gents at the (Sold Out!) 3rd Annual Craftcation Conference in Ventura, California where we made our own glamorous black floppy hats using reclaimed materials. And now we’re sharing it with you here on WeAllSew!

The free printable PDF pattern was drafted for an average size head (22.5 inches) and is sewn together using a 1/2” seam allowance. For anyone who is adept at sewing techniques you can adjust the seam allowance to provide a slightly bigger fit. I recommend reading through the instructions before beginning. I’ve provided you with the option of an extra large brim or a regular brim size.

Supplies

• Printed out Floppy Fedora Hat pattern (6 pages)
• Scissors
• Tailors chalk
• 1-3/4 yards of bottom weight or upholstery fabric
• 1 yard Pellon Heavyweight Fusible Fleece
• 1/2 yard coordinating 2″-wide grosgrain ribbon

Download and print the pattern pieces: Craftcation14_Floppy_Fedora_pattern_pieces_121314.pdf

Step 1) Cut the fabric.

Following directions on the pattern:

• Hat Side
  • Cut one (1) hat side from outer fabric (on bias)
  • Cut one (1) hat side from lining (on bias)
  • Cut one (1) hat side from fusible fleece (on bias) minus the seam allowances
• Hat Top
  • Cut one (1) hat top from outer fabric (on straight grain)
  • Cut one (1) hat top from lining (on straight grain)
• Hat Brim
  • Cut two (2) brims from outer fabric (on straight grain)
  • Cut one (1) brim from fusible fleece (on straight grain) minus the seam allowances

You should now have two large “donut” circles from your outer from your outer fabric and one from fleece; one “slanted rainbow” from outer fabric, one from lining, and one from fleece; and one oval from your outer fabric and one from your lining.

Step 2) Construct the brim.

Fuse or baste your fleece interfacing to the wrong side of  one large circle.

Place the two large circles wrong sides together and pin around the outside edge. Sew the outside edge only with 1/2″-wide seam allowance. Remember the key is to have smooth seam – to sew around the curves, stop with the needle down, rotate the fabric ever so slightly, then continue sewing.

Grade the seam allowances. Notch the curve creating V-shaped cuts spaced 1/2″ apart, this helps to eliminate bulk and create smoother finished edges.

Flip the brim right side out through the center hole opening. Even out the edges using your finger or by running a blunt object such as a spoon inside the brim. Press if needed.

Pin along the outside edge of the brim. Using the edge of your presser foot as a guide, topstitch around the brim.

Stitch a second row, again using the edge of the presser foot as a guide.

Tip: For wider spacing, move the needle position to the far left; for narrower spacing, move it to the right.

Continue adding rows; the more rows you add, the stiffer your hat will be.

Step 3) Construct the top of your hat.

You’ll be constructing two hat top pieces – one will be a liner (inside the hat) and the other will be outer layer.

Prepare one side hat piece by basting or fusing your fleece interface onto wrong side of curved rainbow shape.

Fold the pieces right sides together matching the center back (CB) raw edges and sew with a 1/2″-wide seam allowance. Repeat for other side hat piece.

Using tailor’s chalk (or marking implement of choice), transfer the marks from the oval hat top pattern piece to both oval hat tops.

Clip at the marks, making six 1/2″-deep cuts. (See photo for placement.) These will help us to successfully pin and sew the hat top and side together without puckers.

Pin your hat top to the hat side, matching the center back and then the center front. This requires a little manipulation and finesse. Instead of pinning perpendicular to the top of the hat (as you might when adding a skirt to a bodice), you will need to mushroom the hat outwards and place your pins as you would the stitches, running parallel to the edge.

Continue pinning around the hat, adjusting the fabric as needed.

Sew the hat top and side pieces together using 1/2″-wide seam allowance to create the hat crown. Grade and notch the seam allowances. Repeat for the lining pieces.

Fit the hat tops together, wrong sides facing each other. Baste together at with a 1/4″-wide seam allowance.

Step 4) Complete the hat assembly.

Insert the hat crown into the brim. Match up the center back seam to the back of your hat; pin.

Sew together using a 1/2″-wide seam allowance.

We’ll finish the inside edge by adding a sweat band. Take the grosgrain ribbon and pin it onto the seam allowance.

Stitch in place, sewing close to the edge of the ribbon.

Trim seam allowances with pinking shears. Tack the sweat band to the hat using a running stitch, making sure you catch only the lining fabric.

Let the Floppy Fedora  work for you this summer by tying your favorite bright scarf into a big bow around the crown or by adding a flower. Share your finished hats with us on Instagram or Facebook by tagging @BERNINAUSA and/or @TrashN2Tees.