I am a tad bit on the short side which means I have had to hem every pair of jeans that I have ever owned. So I thought I would share a few tips that I have learned over the years. The key is taking the time to press the hem and the seam allowances before starting to stitch. It may seem like unnecessary work, but it will be worth it!
Materials to Hem Jeans
How to Hem Jeans
1. Always pre-wash before hemming. (I learned that the hard way!)
2. Try on and mark them finished hem. If you are going to err, err on the side of them being too long. (Learned that the hard way too!)
3. Cut the jeans 1” longer than the marked hemline.
4. Cut away as much of the side seam allowances as possible.
5. Press the bottom up 1”. Use a clapper to set the creases.
6. Unfold the hem and fold the raw edge just shy of the crease, and then fold up again.
7. Press again using the clapper. (Press with steam and then immediately place the clapper on top of the seam and exert pressure on the clapper.
8. Take extra time pressing the seams. Clip a wooden clothespin over the seams. Leave the clothespin in place until ready to stitch.
9. Attach Jeans Foot #8/8D to the machine. This straight stitch foot is specially designed work with a large Jeans/Denim needle and prevent it from breaking as uneven layers pass under it.
10. Lengthen the stitch length to match the current topstitching.
11. This is vitally important: Insert a new Jeans needle size 100 or 110. (These may be called Denim needles.)
12. Match the color of the thread to the topstitching on the jeans. I am particularly partial of YLI’s Jeans Stitch Thread
in Topaz Gold for the thread. It looks good with most of my jeans. There is also a color called “Blue Jean Gold,” which is a little brighter.
13. Slide the leg opening over the freearm of your machine and start stitching an inch or two beyond the inside seam allowance.
14. Set the needle to stop in the down position if your machine has that capability.
15. With the needle down in the fabric, stop and raise the presser foot when you come to the thick seam.
16. Slide the Height Compensation Tool (comes with most BERNINA machines) AKA “the hump jumper” under the back of the foot and continue stitching. (If you can’t find the “hump jumper,” a sewing machine needle pack will work.)
17. As you start “downhill”, exert pressure on the tip of the toes with your finger as you sew.
18. Continue stitching, overlapping two or three stitches over the beginning stitches.
19. Pull the needle thread to the back and tie off.
20. Wear your newly hemmed jeans proudly! They look great!