Fall Trends:Sewing Patterns for Jackets, Vests and Coats

Hi Everyone! Julie Eilber from JetSetSewing.com here. Are you looking forward to fall? This is the time of year I start dreaming of wearing fun jackets and wraps, even if the mercury is still in the “tank top” zone.

Here are some suggestions for fall patterns—take a look and then “shop” your fabric stash for the goods—if you’re like me, you have some fall fabrics in there somewhere!

The varsity jacket style is very popular right now in stores, and here are two patterns that fit the bill:

McCall’s 7100 makes an easy, casual jacket from moderate stretch knits, and it can be color-blocked. It’s a fun look for back-to-school or dashing to the gym. I’ve found that the vari-overlock stitch #3 on my BERNINA 560 (AKA “Karl”) is great for attaching ribbing on patterns like this.

McCall’s is doing a sew-along for this pattern on their blog right now, and you can find it here.Mimi G of Simplicity (8222) has come up with a high-style take on the classic varsity jacket. It goes below the hips and features a belt in the back. It’s designed for knits like ponte, doubleknit, or pre-quilted fabric for that Chanel zing. And if you’re new to sewing, you can find Mimi G’s step-by-step tutorial for the jacket on Simplicity’s YouTube channel.

I mostly sew retro, and two recent old-school patterns caught my eye:

McCall’s has just released a vintage coat pattern (7478) in their “Archive” collection. It’s a chic 50’s coat with the major rounded collar that I’m seeing in all the upscale stores this fall.Pick this pattern to expand your tailoring skills, and I’d recommend using BERNINA Walking Foot #50 when attaching the exterior fashion fabric to a slippery lining.

Simplicity has also gone back to the 1950’s with this chic dress and jacket combination (8245). I like that it has a retro feeling, but it doesn’t look too costumey. The jacket has a flirty peplum with a pleat, so it would be fun to wear with jeans to a casual dinner.

Here are a couple of looks for those professional days. I mostly write from home, but when I do need to meet with editors or attend parent/teacher conferences, these are the looks I would pick:

I was attracted to this “Vogue Wardrobe” pattern because it has a variety of mix and match separates that are perfect for work and travel. In particular, the combination of this simple knit dress with flowing vest would work in meetings from coast to coast.

If you’re a person who is “afraid” to sew with knits, give this pattern a try with a stable doubleknit like ponte, using the stretch stitches on your BERNINA. You’ll be amazed at how easy it is, and BERNINA’s high-quality feed makes a world of difference with knits! I would choose stretch stitch #18 on my B 560 for a sturdy yet stretchy seam.

Another “grown up” look to consider is this Chanel-style jacket (6382) from Butterick. Those of us who have lived through the 70+ hour process of making an haute couture-style “Little French Jacket” know that the agony is eventually worth it. This pattern is simplified, so you get the feel of the Chanel style without the pain that goes with it.But we can’t be “ladylike” all the time, so here’s a pattern with a little rock ‘n’ roll. This moto jacket by Lisette (6169) has a touch of attitude, but not enough to get you arrested.You can find a sew-along for this jacket on the Lisette website.

When those October winds start blowing in the Northeast, I know I’ll be ready for a cozy blanket-style coat to keep me toasty on the school run.

As I was “browsing” (meaning stealing ideas for sewing) in a department store recently, I spotted this wool/cashmere blanket coat:

For $1,300! I wanted to tell the saleswoman, “do you have any idea how easy this is to make?!”

There are a number of patterns that are similar to this design, including Vogue 8930 and New Look 6474. Marcy Tilton has released her own take on the classic hooded coat for Vogue (9140), made from thick knits like boiled wool.

I’ve found the BERNINA Bulky Overlock foot #12C is the best thing for putting together seams on thick fabric like this, and as a bonus, the foot makes perfect piping, too. (I’ll admit it’s my favorite presser foot!) I like to use stretch overlock stitch #13 on the seams of boiled wool and other hefty fabrics.

I always know that I’m using the right stitch by consulting the information available on the screen of my B 560. All I have to do is touch the question mark button, and the screen tells me everything I need to know. Then I go back to the main screen to select the stitch length and width using the knobs. As someone who used to sew exclusively on a vintage mechanical machine, I can tell you that the BERNINA feed, stitch choices and onscreen features make a world of difference in my sewing.

I hear that wool in my stash calling me, and Karl is impatiently tapping his Bulky Overlock foot, so I’d better get sewing!