Chandelier Quilt Along: Week Two – Make the Blocks
Welcome to Week 2 of the Chandelier QuiltAlong! Today we’ll be making the blocks. For Week One, click HERE.
The Chandelier blocks are made as an inner block, which is then set on point within a larger square made up of four corner triangles. So, we’ll make the inner blocks first, and then I’ll show you how to add the corner triangles to complete the blocks.
First, a note about making halfsquare triangles (HSTs). These instructions use the 2atatime method for making HSTs. There are numerous other ways to make HSTs, including 4atatime and 8atatime. I chose the 2atatime method because 4atatime results in HSTs on the bias, which I did not want for this quilt, and 8atatime is an offnumber for this pattern, which requires HSTs in multiples of 12 for each print. But feel free to make your HSTs any way you choose! You’ll just have to calculate fabric and cutting requirements accordingly.
Second, there are a few corrections to the cutting instructions that I need to draw your attention to. My apologies for these errors!
 From “Ripples in Pond”, you will need 11 squares 23/4″ x 23/4″, not 17.
 From the offwhite solid, you will need 20 squares 13/4″ x 13/4″, not 18.
 From the offwhite solid, you will need 115 squares 23/4″ x 23/4″, not 114.
 Cut an additional 5 squares 21/4″ x 21/4″ from 5 different prints. These will be used for the diamonds at the end of each row of blocks, which we will make in Week 3.
Okay, ready to get started?
Make the Inner Blocks
1. Set aside 1 of the 115 white squares 23/4″ x 23/4″ to use later, when we make the halfblocks at the top edge of the quilt.
2. Mark a diagonal line from corner to corner on the back of the remaining 114 white 23/4″ squares.
3. Pair each marked white 23/4″ square with a print 23/4″ square.
4. Sew 1/4″ away on each side of the marked diagonal line.
5. Cut on the marked diagonal line and press HSTs open (pressing seams open here will help you get more perfect points in a later step!). Use the 45degree angle line on your ruler to square up each HST to 21/4″ x 21/4″.
6. Arrange two HSTs of the same print side by side and sew together, as shown. (Be sure your HSTs are always oriented in the direction shown!) Press seam allowances open or toward the print.
7. Arrange one HST and a 21/4″ square in the same print side by side and sew together, as shown. (Be sure the HST is always oriented in the direction shown!) Press seam allowances open or toward the HST.
8. Arrange these 2 units as shown and sew together. Press seam allowances as desired. Your completed fourpatch unit should measure 4″ x 4″.
Tip: As you are sewing this seam, make sure you pass right through the intersection of where the perpendicular seam meets the bias seam of the HST (see photo). Pressing your HST seams open in Step 4 allows you to see exactly where this seam needs to go in order to get perfect points!
9. Set aside 2 HSTs in Ripple Rose (pink) and 2 HSTs in Ripple Pond (dark gray). These HSTs will be used later in the halfblocks at the top of the quilt. Discard one additional HST in Ripple Rose and one HST in Ripple Pond (since we needed an odd number of HSTs for these two prints, you end up with one extra of each).
10. With the remaining HSTs, repeat steps 5 through 7 to create a total of 74 of these 4patch HST units (in various prints).
11. Arrange two HST fourpatch units and 1 solid piece 13/4″ x 4″, as shown. Sew together. Press seam allowances open or toward the solid color. Make two identical units.
12. Arrange 2 solid color pieces 13/4″ x 4″ and 1 white piece 13/4″ x 13/4″ as shown, and sew together. Press seam allowances open or toward the solid color.
13. Arrange these three units together as shown and sew together. Press seams as desired.
14. The completed inner block should measure 81/4″ x 81/4″. Make 18 of these. You should have 2 fourpatch HST units left over, one in Rose Ripples and one in Pond Ripples. Set those aside to make the halfblocks later.
Finish the Blocks
Now we’re ready to finish the block by adding the corner squares. At this point, the Chandelier blocks become a basic squareinsquare block construction. The squareinsquare is a versatile unit that appears in many quilts, so it’s a great skill to have in your arsenal. It can be a finicky block to piece accurately, but my tips should help you get your blocks just right!
1. Fold your 7″ x 7″ triangles in half and press, as shown. We’ll use this crease mark as a centering reference point.
2. Now fold your inner blocks in half and press to crease.
3. Line up the long edge of one of your creased white triangles with the edge of an inner block. Make sure the creases line up, as shown. Pin and sew together. Do the same with another triangle on the opposite side of the inner block. Press seam allowances open. (I prefer open seam allowances here for accuracy and to reduce seam bulk at the points.)
Tip: The white corner triangles are slightly oversized to allow for easier piecing, so don’t worry if it seems like the triangles are a little large—that’s why we pressed them in half to establish the center creases. That way you only have to worry about the center lining up, and we’ll trim the block down to size later.
4. Press this entire pieced unit in half in the other direction, to create a crease going the other way.
5. Sew the creased white triangles to the remaining edges of the inner block, as shown. Press seam allowances open.
6. Square up your block to 121/8″ x 121/8″. (Sorry about the odd finished block size—I couldn’t figure out a good way around it!) Each point of the inner block should be 1/4″ from the unfinished edge of the block.
7. Make 18 complete blocks. (You should end up with 4 white corner triangles left over—set them aside for use in the halfblocks.)
Make the HalfBlocks
The last thing we’ll do this week is make the two halfblocks that are at the top edge of the quilt. I love the look of halfblocks and use them frequently in my quilts—I love the way they make the quilt design appear to continue off the edges of the quilt.
For the half blocks, you will need the following:
 The two leftover 4patch HST units (one in Pond Ripples and the other in Rose Ripples)
 The 4 remaining 23/4″ x 23/4″ print squares, cut in half diagonally from corner to corner to make 8 triangles
 The remaining white 23/4″ x 23/4″ square, cut in half diagonally from corner to corner to make 2 triangles
 The 2 remaining 13/4″ x 13/4″ white squares
 The 4 remaining 13/4″ x 4″ solid color pieces (2 pink and 2 gray)
 The 4 remaining white 7″ triangles
1. Pair one of the remaining HSTs with one of the triangles of the same print. The short sides of the triangle should be aligned with the edges of the HST, as shown in the photo. Allow the pointed ends of the triangle to hang over the edges of the HST.
2. Sew the HST and the triangle together so that it looks like this. Press seams open or toward the triangle.
3. Add one of the two white triangles you reserved from the Step 1 of Making the Inner Blocks. Lay it out as shown here, aligning the short edges of the triangle with the edges of the HST.
4. Press seams open or toward the triangle.
5. Repeat Steps 1 through 5 to make another unit with the same prints, but this time replace the white triangle with a second print triangle. The completed unit will look like this.
6. Lay out the two units you just made with one of the 4patch HST units, 2 solid color 13/4″ x 4″ pieces, and 1 white square 13/4″ x 13/4″, as shown.
7. Sew the first three units together as shown. Press seams open or toward the solid color piece.
8. Sew the white 13/4″ square and the solid color 13/4″ x 4″ piece together as shown.
9. Sew all the three sections together as shown, pressing seams open or toward the solid color piece.
10. Complete the halfblock by adding the corner triangles, as shown. Press seams open.
11. Trim down the halfblock to 121/8″ x 61/4″. Be sure to trim 1/4″ from the point, as shown.
That’s it for this week! Next week we will again use the squareinsquare construction to make the diamonds at the bottom of each row of blocks, and we’ll assemble the quilt top. I’ll also show you how to make the beautiful scallop quilting by using your walking foot and a decorative stitch on your machine.
And don’t forget to share your progress on Instagram! Hashtag #chandelierquiltalong and #berninausa. See you next Monday!
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3 comments on “Chandelier Quilt Along: Week Two – Make the Blocks”


Love your design:) I have one pieced. If I can figure it out I’ll try to post a picture.
Thank you!! 
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Love this quilt!!!!