In this tutorial, I’d like to share with you how to sew darts in multi-layer with lace overlay.
- Dual Feed or Walking Foot, BERNINA Walking foot # 50
- Marking pens or pencils
- Tracing paper (I used air erasable Frixion pens)
- Sewing machine, I sew on a BERNINA 770 QE
Step 1: Mark Dart Lines
All marking will be made on fashion fabric underlayer. Mark center dart guideline. Mark both dart leg stitching lines. Mark dart stitching lines on the under layer wrong side (none public side) of fashion fabric.
Step 2: Layer your Fabric and Lace
Layer lace to right side of your fabric using a temporary spray adhesive or hand-basting.
Step 3: Chose your Stitch and Pressure
Lower the foot pressure to 40.
Step 4: Baste Dart Lines
To baste the dart lines use the Dual Feed or the BERNINA Walking foot # 50.
Baste 1/16th inch inside of dart stitch lines as previously marked. Starting with the center dart placement line, then baste (using stitch length between 3.5-4.5) the dart dart legs.
Step 5: Pinning the Darts
Line up and match dart stitching lines as you pin darts in preparation for stitching. It is important here to utilize your center guideline, which helps to keep the lace in place and centered within the dart legs.
Step 6: Stitching the Darts
Needle Placement is 1/16″ from basting.
Use a 2.5 – 3.5 stitch length and stitch the darts exactly along the previously marked stitching lines, which should be 1/16th inch from the dart basting made in step 4.
NOTE: Keep the stitching close to the basting lines in order to insure the lace is caught up in the dart along with the fashion fabric as you come to the dart endpoint.
Shorten stitch length to 1.5 mm at least 1/2″ before the dart ending point. Stitch until the needle is just off the tip of the dart point at the tip where all of the basted lines meet.
Keep the stitching only a slight hairline away from the basting stitches toward the endpoint. This final stitch will make a difference from the finished side and create a smoother transition from lace to fabric.
Step 7: Finishing Tips
Press the dart to one side over a pressing ham using a press cloth. Depending on the thickness of the fashion fabric and lace overlay, the dart may need to be cut open to reduce bulkiness or show through.