Jeans Sewn with a 3-Thread Overlock and Chain Stitch

How to Sew Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

Jeans is a project that always blows non-sewers minds. A lot of people think that there is no way possible that a home sewer can achieve professional results on denim as you would see in ready-to-wear. But you can! And I used my BERNINA 1300 MDC for my jeans.

How to Sew Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

Seams on jeans take on a lot of stress, so I decided to use the 3-thread overlock (right needle) and chain stitch—also known as the 5-thread safety stitch. And it’s also a lot faster than sewing the seams on a regular machine and having to grade seams and finish on the overlocker.

Materials to Sew Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

Materials to Sew Denim Jeans

  • Machines: BERNINA 1300 MDC and BERNINA 350 PE
  • Fabric: Stretch Denim with at least 2% lycra
  • Cotton lining for pockets
  • Jean zipper
  • Pattern: Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Pattern
  • Rotary cutter and mat
  • All-purpose thread
  • Heavy duty thread for topstitching
  • 5 cones of serger thread
  • Jeans/Denim needles (size 100/16)
  • Jean button
  • Denim Rivets (optional)

How to Set-Up the BERNINA 1300MDC with a 3-Thread Overlock and Chain Stitch

3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

This stitch is made using 2 needles and 3 loopers. The overlock stitch uses the right needle and 2 loopers. And the chain stitch uses the right cover stitch needle and one looper.

BERNINA 1300MDC Settings for Sewing Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch

Since I’m making jeans, I used thread closest to the color of my denim for my chain stitch. And any color of your liking can be used for the overlock stitch.

BERNINA 1300MDC Settings for Sewing Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

I used the stitch setting for number 18.

Follow all of the sewing pattern instructions for preparing and cutting out your fabric.

How to Sew Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

The first seam is the back yoke sewn to the back of the jeans.

How to Sew Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

All of the seam allowances should be 5/8″.

How to Sew Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

So, only about a quarter of an inch should be cut off.

How to Sew Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

This is how the seam looks. It looks just like it was sewn with a sewing machine and finished on the overlocker, when in fact the sewing machine was skipped for this part.

How to Sew Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

And it has the perfect 3/8″ seam allowance. Now press the seam towards the yoke and topstitch two rows.

How to Sew Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

With right sides together, stitch the center back seam. Press the seam towards the left leg and topstitch two rows along the center back seam.

How to Sew Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

Sew the front per the sewing pattern instructions. And stitch the front to the back first a the inner leg. Press the seam towards the back and topstitch 2 rows. And then stitch the side seams. All of the major seams have been completed with the overlocker.

How to Sew Jeans with a 3-Thread Overlock + Chain Stitch Tutorial 1200 x 800 BERNINA WeAllSew Blog - Erica Bunker DIY Style

Now finish the jeans per the sewing pattern instructions.

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