I love bias binding. I especially love to use it in the place of facings at the neckline and armholes. It’s my preferred finish when constructing garments sewn in sheer fabrics. Bias facing provides a cleaner finish without having a facing that shows through. And it’s simple to do. In these easy steps, I’ll walk you through how it’s done.
Materials Needed to Make a Bias Facing
- Raw edge of a garment (i.e. neckline, armhole or hem)
- 2″ bias binding (made by hand or purchased)
- Sewing machine (I used my BERNINA 350PE)
- Reverse Pattern Foot #1
- Edgestitch Foot #10D or Blindstitch Foot #5
When using a commercial pattern that was not originally drafted for a bias bound finish, you will need to make adjustments. Typically, seam allowances are drafted at 5/8″. To attach the bias binding, you will need a 1/4″ seam allowance. So, you will need to reduce the original seam allowance by 3/8″.
Your bias strips should be two inches wide and the length of your garment’s edge. Press them in half lengthwise with wrong sides together, using a warm iron. Too much heat will cause the bias strips to stretch.
Pin your folded bias strips to the wrong side of the neckline or armhole, matching the raw edge and secure with pins.
Stitch the binding to the neckline using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance.
Press the bias binding and the seam allowances up and away from the neckline or the armhole.
Fold the binding over to the right side and press.
Using an edgestitch foot or a blindstitch foot, edgestitch the binding very close to the folded edge.
Give a final press and you’re all done!