Home » Rulerwork for Beginners, Part 1: Rulers

Difficulty level
Beginner
Used Material
80/12 quilting needle, basic sewing supplies, batting, coordinating thread, cotton fabric, marking chalk, quilt backing, topstitch 90/14 needle
Techniques
quilting, rulerwork
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Used Products

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    • I can’t say there is an advantage of one over the other. They are both sharp needles. The point of a quilting needle is a little longer and is designed to go through multiple layers, so is always a good choice. I Jeans needle is more available for many people.

    • So glad you will be joining us. Not real sure I am going to get into much detail about marking tools. When ever I am marking on darker fabrics I like to use white tailor’s chalk and whenever I am on a lighter fabric where the white chalk does not show I use a water soluble marker. My preferred marker is the Styla Water Erasable Roller Pen by Sewline. I like it because it is a fine tip and I don’t think it puts as much ink in the fabric. I use a wet cloth or a misting bottle to remove it.

  • I’m looking forward to following this series. If I plan on using the blocks as a quilt in the end, can I use the backing fabric I have planned to use or should I still use muslin?

    • Most definitely!! Use whatever you would like on the back as a backing. You will then need about about 1/4 yard for the strips that will be used to assemble.

  • I a
    m delighted with this project. I have taken classes from Nina in the past, but always need more practice. Is there any way we could get the quilt directions prior to 9 months from now. My house does not need any more pillows….learning to multi-hoop on the embroidery machine has taken care of any pillow shortage! But a small quilt would be great. It just seems like an awful chore to stitch finish blocks together and then have to hand stitch the backings together……There must be an easier way! Thanks for listening!

    • Here are the finishing instructions for the throw, but it does involve some hand stitching. You could piece all the blocks and piece the blocks together and quilt each block as you manage the rest of the quilt.
      To make the throw, arrange the blocks three across and three down. You will be seaming the blocks together making three rows of three and then seaming the rows. Cut 6 strips of fabric 1 1/4″ X 21” Press under ¼” on the long sides of the strips. Place two blocks right sides together laying the raw edge of a strip of fabric on top aligning all the edges and stitch a ¼” seam. Use your Dual Feed or the Walking Foot #50. Press the seam to one side allowing the fabric strip to cover the seam, trim off any excess on the ends. Hint: The seam will lie flatter if you trim some of the batting out of the seam. Hand stitch the folded edge of the fabric strip to the back of the quilt. Repeat the process until you have three blocks joined together, three times. Cut 2 strips of fabric 1 ¼” X 61”. Continue in the same manner until you have the three rows joined. Trim off any excess on the ends of the long seams. Bind your quilt.

  • For those of us sewing on a longarm, should we assemble the entire top up front? I do not understand your comment about 24”. Please clarify. Thanks!

    • If you are working on a frame and you would like to make quilt from the blocks, then by all means sew the blocks together for a 60″ X 60″ top. You will need to piece your backing. The original intent was to make individual blocks and if you were to do that, I was saying that 2 blocks would fit across the width of the fabric and you would be using about a length of 24″ of fabric for the two squares.

  • Thank you for this! I just did my first block–I have a ways to go but it was getting more and more comfortable. I had a question about the plexiglass — do people find they still need to use a supreme slider or similar product on top of the plexiglass, or is the plexiglass already smooth enough? Thanks!

    • Hello,

      In my opinion it is a matter of personal preference. And for me it depends on the type of fabric I have on the back of my quilt. If I am using flannel, Minky or Cuddle type material, then I also us the Slider to help in moving the fabric easier. However some people find the Slider just makes it easier for them to move the quilt top. Try both and see what works best for you.

      Happy Quilting,
      Heather

  • In the construction of quilt blocks, what is the rule for borders, i.e., on the side first, then across the top and bottom? Or, across the top and bottom first, then down each side? I am always confused about this technique. Please advise.

    • Alberta,

      This will partly depend on the pattern for the quilt top. Some patterns have specific instructions for attaching the borders to the quilt. Others just say attach borders. Part of this is a matter of personal preference. If you like the way a finished quilt looks, then look a how the borders where attached. Did they add the side borders first, then the top and bottom. Come up with what is appealing to your eye and then go from there.

      Best of luck on your borders,
      Heather

  • Where can I purchase the Bernina ruler you show in this lesson? I can’t find it. I’m excited to start this since I’ve had the #72 foot for 5 years and have never used it. This COVID-19 has me looking for different things to try since I’m trying hard to stay home.

  • I’m just getting started with ruler work . I will be working on a domestic , my question what machine settings? Stitch, tension etc .
    Thank you

    Jeri

    • Jeri,
      Great question!
      Rulerwork quilting is typically done with the straight stitch. As far as tension, on our BERNINA machines I leave the tension at the default setting to start and then test stitch an area. The tension setting will depend on what type and weight of threads you use. I usually have a practice quilt sandwich that I test the ruler as well as the stitch setting on. Then make any adjustments that are needed to have the perfect stitch.
      Hope this information helps.
      Happy Quilting
      Heather~

  • I am having trouble getting the pressure foot #72 low enough so that the machine can sew properly. There is about a 1/4 inch gap above the fabric. I have used the dial and lowered the foot as much as possible. Do you have any suggestions? I’m frustrated as I can’t use the rulers so I had to mark the fabric to sew the lines. The piece I’m working on is a quilted tea mat.

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