Gathering with a Serger and Sewing Machine
Have you ever wondered—how are a sewing machine and serger alike or different? As a sewist, we are always learning new ways to achieve results with various options. From feet to techniques, it seems there is often a different way you can approach the same task. We thought it would be fun to see how to achieve sewing techniques on both a sewing machine and a serger, but at the same time!
Let’s take a look side by side.
Machines Featured
First Things First: Feet
Serger- Gathering Foot #C18
The L 890 uses the overlocker presser feet that begin with the letter “C”. This distinguishes this machine from the other L 8 Overlockers that are not a Combo Machine. So I like to the think of the “C” standing for Combo (or Coverstitch). Because the L 890 has wider set feed dogs, these feet need to cover the entire width of the feed dogs. Sometimes the presser feet for the L 890 will work with both coverstitches and overlock stitches, but #C18 is only meant for gathering with the overlock stitch. The unique design of the foot has a slit at the front where you can feed in a second layer of fabric to attach a ruffle to—I will explain this in the technique description. Most overlockers will have a gathering foot, be sure to find the one that works for your model.
Sewing Machine- Gathering Foot #16
There are multiple ways to create gathering on your sewing machine. Some methods include sewing two rows of long stitches and pulling the threads up to gather, or even zigzagging over a cord. You could also use the Ruffler Foot #86. Learn more about it here. But if you are looking for a more immediate gathered effect, we recommend trying Gathering Foot #16. This foot comes in two sizes; a narrow 5.5mm version shown and a wider 9mm version. Like the overlocker, using this foot on the sewing machine you can gather a ruffled fabric to a flat fabric. The fabric that encounters the feed dog will be the one to gather.
Set Up for Success: Machine Settings
Serger
Knowing where to start when trying out special techniques, like gathering, can be a bit overwhelming—especially on a machine like a serger. A great advantage of the L 890 (and L 860) is having touch screen navigation that includes a Creative Consultant feature. This feature is found on the home screen and it looks like a dress form.
From here, you will be prompted to select the textile that you are working on. If you are unsure you can use the help button (the question mark at the bottom of the touchscreen) to get the definition. We used a medium weight woven, the middle woven icon. Once you have selected the textile, you will then select the technique—for us this is gathering, letter “H”.
Notice how the machine will prompt you to use the Gathering Foot #C18. It also sets up the stitch for you to begin with. I always try the recommended settings and then adjust to my liking. For me when I want to create a little more pucker to my gathering on a serger, I will increase my needle tensions and perhaps increase my stitch length as I have here. With my machine threaded for the 4-thread overlock and my settings in place, all I need to do is add the foot and test the fabric.
Sewing Machine
Using the Gathering Foot #16 on your sewing machine makes gathering as simple as sewing a straight stitch, but there are a few things to do in addition to changing the presser foot. Selecting the presser foot on the B 770QE PLUS will show the presser foot on the screen. You will then want to increase your stitch length, this is what will affect the amount of fabric gathered. A longer stitch length pulls up more fabric with each stitch.
Tried and True: Techniques
Serger
A unique advantage to gathering on the serger is that your seams are also trimmed and finished in the same action. This can save you some time and result in a sturdy construction finish.
You can adjust the amount of gathering achieved by altering the tension settings, stitch length and differential feed. Always feel empowered to play around with the settings. A few other ways to get more gathering is to pull on the needle threads at the end or to simply run a gathered piece through the machine a second time—it will gather the gathered piece, making it shorter.
The gathering foot also has a slit or space at the front of the foot where you can add a piece of fabric into the seam. When you place the second fabric here, it will not engage directly with the feed dogs below and it will sew into place. It does take some practice getting the sense for how to handle the fabrics through the machine. The piece that is being gathered will move much faster than the flat piece.
There is also not an exact science (or ratio) to how much fabric you need to gather to a flat piece of a certain length. My advice is to test on a 10” swatch and do basic multiply and add a little for variation. Another tip for gathering long runs is to mark your middle points on both pieces and strive to have them match when they run through that super speedy serger.
Sewing Machine
You can use this foot to gather a single layer or to add a gathered fabric to flat fabric like in this tiered ruffled skirt. Increase your stitch length to 4-5 mm for a nice gathering effect. The lighter the fabric the better this foot will work. Place the fabric right side up underneath the presser foot and hold the thread tails as you begin to sew. It takes a little practice to get used to the feeling of the fabric moving under this foot, but once you’ve gathered a few yards of fabric you will have it down.
There is a slit in the sole of this foot that allows you to sew this fabric to another fabric that remains ungathered. Once you are finished with the gathers you can finish up your seams with a zig zag of row of stitching.
Sum of it All: Results
So what do you think—which machine will you try first?
Serger
We love doing gathers on the serger. Add a rolled hem to the bottom edge of your ruffle and you’re in business. Everything looks finished and pretty in relatively no time. The simplicity of changing the settings makes fast work of gathering regardless of having the gathering presser foot, but using the foot gives you the best results and the ability to sew in a flat piece of fabric too. If you love to sew things with ruffles, next time try your serger for the job!
Sewing Machine
Gathering on a sewing machine is a great skill to learn and although there are many ways to do it, don’t you think that this foot is fun to use? Adding a ruffle to a flat fabric is a useful way to make all kinds of things from dresses to pillow cases.
Next time you are looking to add something special to your project try making some ruffles with the gathering foot for your sewing machine or your serger!
